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StarTopic The Switch OLED Model |ST| The Switch O-Thread

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phyl0x said:
No idea, i got both but am going with the thinner one cause well its thinner and i just need it for scratch protection, it also seems to be the "newer model".

Here are the two boxes (the left is .33 and the right is .26), they are 100% identical other than the .26 has a sticker over the UPC that adds a v2 to the model name:
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The first version had round corners which the OLED display doesn’t. I don’t see a big difference here between the 0.26 and the 0.33mm thickness. Both round to 0.3mm and maybe it’s more marketing. But would be interesting if the newer one fits the display better. The Orzly one is to small, leaves a small gap uncovered on all sides.
 
Intoxicate said:
The first version had round corners which the OLED display doesn’t. I don’t see a big difference here between the 0.26 and the 0.33mm thickness. Both round to 0.3mm and maybe it’s more marketing. But would be interesting if the newer one fits the display better. The Orzly one is to small, leaves a small gap uncovered on all sides.
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put the new one (.26mm) on last night, it's a 100% perfect fit into the screen area. in fact, the lip of the metal bezels stick up more than the screen protector, so it inlays perfectly with the screen. even the original amfilm for the original switch still was obvious as a screen protector... this one is totally invisible. really impressed.
 
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I put a Hori Screen Protector Filter (it's a very thin plastic film and looks invisible on) on my replacement OLED earlier today. It's got some dust trapped underneath but it's only really noticeable on a white background when you're looking for it. I accept that my house is a dust trap.

I really do think the OLED is tougher to get a dust free install on. It collects dust way more than v1/v2 and crud gets stuck in the crevices around the bezel. I didn't really have many issues with the other Switches.

I was going to try to use compressed air but I'm not sure it's safe. I tried a blast of it and some of the refrigerant leaked out onto my screen. Put me right off. I've never used compressed air before. I will try it on my old desktop PC to blow dust out of the fans and grow more confident with it. Appears you need to really make sure you don't shake the can in any way and use totally upright.

After returning one unit with a defective screen, failing to apply 3 0.26mm tempered glass protectors, and getting dust now under this film, I just can't be arsed any more. I'm done babying this thing. I always look after my stuff and I've never really had any issues. This film gives me some peace of mind when docking and that is all I need.

Edit: I've only had this replacement less than a day and already paint is coming off the screws on the rails. My v1 and partner's v2 which we've had for yonks are fine. It's only cosmetic but still... Done babying. Just want to enjoy this thing.

 
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I always do my screen protectors in a steamy bathroom, helps reduce the dust. but my first .26mm still got a fiber under it, but second came out flawless. I also use the stickers to make the screen protector a hinge. So three stickers on the top of the protector sticking off, then get it into place and stick them to the top of the switch, so I can swing it up from the bottom. then I can then clean it and pull the film off and stick it super fast without aligning again. it's always super stressful though.
 
Anyone got experience with the skull and co neo grip and also their screen protectors?
I've just ordered them and hoping I made a good choice.
 
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Intoxicate said:
That’s not my measurement, the screenshot is from a video I found on YouTube. But you don’t need an input, just drop the 10 reference white tones on the SD card and measure the display with the colorimeter.
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Thanks for replying. I recall seeing that video, therefore the screenshot looks familiar. Personally I'm a bit skeptical of this YouTuber's claims, because there's no easy way to measure brightness or color on the Switch.
  • There's no video input on the Switch to display test patterns.
  • Switch's Album app refuses to show any images not generated by the system. One cannot simply drops in test pattern images on the SD card to display them.
  • There's a hacker tool (to which I won't link) to generate fake system screenshots. In theory one can put test pattern images onto Switch this way. That YouTuber did not explain how he get his measurement though.
  • Another potential solution is to draw your own test patterns. AFAIK, Colors Live is the only drawing/painting app on Switch that features an HSV color picker (screenshot below). This isn't a professional app, therefore I don't know how accurate its color values are. Again, we have no idea if that YouTuber use the app or something similar for his measurement.
screenshot01

So until this YouTuber disclosed his methodology, his test results remain untrustworthy. It's not a coincidence that no well-known outlet (e.g., Digital Foundry) has conducted detailed brightness and color measurements on the OLED Model.

Another thing of note is that the YouTuber compared the OLED Model's vivid mode to the Rec. 709 color space and declared it "no good". However, Rec. 709 and sRGB share the same color space aside from the difference in gamma (2.4 vs 2.2), why would you compare that to the vivid mode's P3 color space? If he wanted to go with a broadcasting standard, Rec. 2020 would've been a more sensible choice.
 
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Best Buy has it go GO!

I managed to secure one, but it's pick up only!

Also got myself an amFilm screen protector. Should I peel off the film that comes with the system or just leave it on and apply the glass over it?
 
Thanks for that! I was able to get one for pickup on the 3rd. Very excited for this upgrade. I’m coming from the lite and been wanting to be able dock for a while now
 
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So upon acquiring the OLED (this will technically be my second Switch), would it be better to keep accounts on both Switches or import user accounts with the intention of not keeping the other Switch? Also how do I handle microSD card data? Do I have to redownload everything or can I just take the data I have and put it in there?

Edit: I read something about how data is encrypted unique to the console. In which case that would mean I would have to redownload all downloadable games.
 
SiG said:
Also got myself an amFilm screen protector. Should I peel off the film that comes with the system or just leave it on and apply the glass over it?
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Nintendo recommends to leave it on. Actually it’s not a protector, it’s an anti shattering layer to hold the parts together in case the display gets damaged.
 
Quoted by: SiG
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SiG said:
Edit: I read something about how data is encrypted unique to the console. In which case that would mean I would have to redownload all downloadable games.
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You can save the content of the SD card on a computer. Then format it on the new Switch and copy the files back to the SD. Then it should work. I don’t know the details but the card needs to be formatted by the system it is used.

If you don’t want to keep your old Switch just transfer the user.
 
Quoted by: SiG
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Intoxicate said:
You can save the content of the SD card on a computer. Then format it on the new Switch and copy the files back to the SD. Then it should work. I don’t know the details but the card needs to be formatted by the system it is used.

If you don’t want to keep your old Switch just transfer the user.
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I plan on transferring over the users (I have a Japanese account as well) along with the microSD card, which is a 1TB capacity. I was hoping to avoid having to format the 1TB microSD card.

Dunno if there are any screenshots I wanted to keep on the microSD as well (my PC already has the pics backed up), so I don't mind if I end up needing to do it anyway.
 
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Oh man, thx to Wario's twitter I was able to jump on a restock from Nintendo's own online store.

Coming from a v1 Im expecting A-maaazing things 🤩

Psyched to continue Dread on this thing!
 
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Honestly, the OLED makes me want every screen in my house OLED now. I recently bought a monitor and may just end up returning it and saving up for an OLED.

I'm currently staying at my sister's house for the next few months but so far the dock is barely getting touched except for when the family wants to play just dance 2021
 
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I like the vivid mode. I hate that the Switch looks so bad on my LG OLED (B8). Is there a guide on how to get the colors to pop a bit like the vivid setting? Maybe that’s blasphemous, but I don’t play games on my TV cause the low resolution on so many games just stands out. Maybe I should turn up the saturation a tiny bit lol? I feel like that might not give me the same results tho.
 
Quoted by: SiG
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Papaya said:
I like the vivid mode. I hate that the Switch looks so bad on my LG OLED (B8). Is there a guide on how to get the colors to pop a bit like the vivid setting? Maybe that’s blasphemous, but I don’t play games on my TV cause the low resolution on so many games just stands out. Maybe I should turn up the saturation a tiny bit lol? I feel like that might not give me the same results tho.
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I don't think it has anything to do with resolution. It sounds like a color range mismatch.

Make sure to check that both your TV and Switch have the same setting for its RGB Range. If your TV is using Full Range RGB, then make sure to set your Switch to that same setting.

My Life In Gaming has a great video that addresses these issues...and features John Linneman from Digital Foundry to even dispel the myth that the Limited Range option is "inferior" between the two: In fact, setting your TV and device both to Limited Range might help.


I have a 4k Samsung TV, and playing Dying Light on Switch is just simply amazing. Even games like the Crysis Trilogy Remastered look really good on it. If you're image is looking too washed out then it's a clear sign that you might not have set it correctly.

Be sure to read up more about it as Switch games should look pretty good provided you configured your TV correctly.
 
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SiG said:
So upon acquiring the OLED (this will technically be my second Switch), would it be better to keep accounts on both Switches or import user accounts with the intention of not keeping the other Switch? Also how do I handle microSD card data? Do I have to redownload everything or can I just take the data I have and put it in there?

Edit: I read something about how data is encrypted unique to the console. In which case that would mean I would have to redownload all downloadable games.
Click to expand...
When I switched to a Mariko Switch, I did a full transfer of my account to the new system, then logged back in on the old one so I can use it for local multiplayer stuff.

You will have to redownload all software on the SD card.
 
Quoted by: SiG
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Pokemaniac said:
When I switched to a Mariko Switch, I did a full transfer of my account to the new system, then logged back in on the old one so I can use it for local multiplayer stuff.

You will have to redownload all software on the SD card.
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I see. So I guess I'll have to reformat my microSD card then.

This also means I'll have to re-add my Japanese user account, which means the newsfeed will likely get populated with articles from both languages again...
 
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Just upgraded to OLED today. I can’t get over how much the new display pops when played in handheld. Mario Kart 8 Deluxe might as well be 4K HDR.

I had no real interest in upgrading but my launch device starting shutting down due to overheating and sounds like a race car.

I assume the old device can just be sent into Nintendo to fix outside of warranty for a fee? Not really keen to manually replace the fan or anything.
 
BlackLotus said:
I assume the old device can just be sent into Nintendo to fix outside of warranty for a fee? Not really keen to manually replace the fan or anything.
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Try calling and providing them with your warranty information (serial number, etc.). They might offer to let you RMA the device and repair it for free (not a guarantee, but Nintendo's customer service is one of the best).
 
Just booked my hotel in Addison, TX for next week on business. Bringing my OLED with me, no dock. I just can't play games without an OLED display anymore. The colors are just so vibrant!
 
BlackLotus said:
Just upgraded to OLED today. I can’t get over how much the new display pops when played in handheld. Mario Kart 8 Deluxe might as well be 4K HDR.

I had no real interest in upgrading but my launch device starting shutting down due to overheating and sounds like a race car.

I assume the old device can just be sent into Nintendo to fix outside of warranty for a fee? Not really keen to manually replace the fan or anything.
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I notice the upgraded screen immediately when i turn on the switch OLED and Nintendo logo showed up with the black background
 
SiG said:
I don't think it has anything to do with resolution. It sounds like a color range mismatch.

Make sure to check that both your TV and Switch have the same setting for its RGB Range. If your TV is using Full Range RGB, then make sure to set your Switch to that same setting.

My Life In Gaming has a great video that addresses these issues...and features John Linneman from Digital Foundry to even dispel the myth that the Limited Range option is "inferior" between the two: In fact, setting your TV and device both to Limited Range might help.


I have a 4k Samsung TV, and playing Dying Light on Switch is just simply amazing. Even games like the Crysis Trilogy Remastered look really good on it. If you're image is looking too washed out then it's a clear sign that you might not have set it correctly.

Be sure to read up more about it as Switch games should look pretty good provided you configured your TV correctly.
Click to expand...

Oh wow thanks for the detailed response! Yeah I'll look into this and see if I can fix it :p
 
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First time docking the OLED today and I'm getting a black flicker every few seconds...anyone know what the resolution here is? My TV did this years ago when I would HDMI my laptop, then it just stopped one day.

I just mailed my old Switch today or else I'd test that again, but that was working fine a day or two ago. Could be a coincidence with odd timing but I'm thinking it's somehow related to the new tablet...somehow

SiG said:
Make sure to check that both your TV and Switch have the same setting for its RGB Range. If your TV is using Full Range RGB, then make sure to set your Switch to that same setting.
Click to expand...
Does the automatic setting in the Switch settings work as it should?
 
Quoted by: SiG
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SiG said:
As mentioned in the My Life In Gaming video, its a hit or miss depending on the TV, so it's best to match it manually.

Avoid using "Automatic" settings whenever possible.
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Great to know. Is that the prevailing wisdom for all devices, not just the Switch? Sorry, I don't have time to watch the video at the moment.
 
Quoted by: SiG
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bloopland33 said:
Great to know. Is that the prevailing wisdom for all devices, not just the Switch? Sorry, I don't have time to watch the video at the moment.
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Generally yes.

I highly encourage watching the video as it does teach a lot of underlying stuff about display signals. As a matter of fact, if you have issues with how your game looks on the TV in general, their channel is the best repository on trying to get the best picture out of any console.
 
SiG said:
I highly encourage watching the video as it does teach a lot of underlying stuff about display signals. As a matter of fact, if you have issues with how your game looks on the TV in general, their channel is the best repository on trying to get the best picture out of any console.
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That's good to know, good resource to have on hand - I'll save it for later!
 
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So... I love this thing but my enthusiasm was met with a downer earlier today when I realized the screen was starting to come lose on the right-hand side. As in, I can press it I and it will give way, it's kinda lose. No idea how that happened, it certainly wasn't me.

So I guess it's time to find out if Nintendo's warranty repair service is as good and fast as I remember it? 🤷‍♀️ I got the repair registered and everything ready in a box tho but I am still waiting on that DHL printout that they said they would send via mail minutes after me completing my repair request. It's been an hour. I'm still waiting. It's automated so that worries me. And no it's not in the spam folder.

Whatever though, it's time to go to bed for me anyways. If the mail isn't here by tomorrow morning, I'll call them and ask what's up.

Let's hope I have my oled switch back within a week like they say I will. Good thing I still have my regular model to hold me over till then. Will report. :)
 
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Anybody noticing on theirs that the Joy-Cons aren't charging? I had my Switch docked for weeks, and my white Joy-Cons are constantly dead. It could be them, but I've also had the issue with other Joy-Cons.
 
Has anyone else had an issue with the Joy-Con not being especially tight on the rails? My left-joycon will come off with minimal pressure applied. The right is pretty sturdy, though.
 
I've found myself using my Switch in tabletop mode a lot more than I was before. The kickstand on the OG model was just crap, so I ended up balancing it off things most of the time, but the OLED kickstand makes tabletop actually viable.
 
Kanhir said:
I've found myself using my Switch in tabletop mode a lot more than I was before. The kickstand on the OG model was just crap, so I ended up balancing it off things most of the time, but the OLED kickstand makes tabletop actually viable.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Tabletop gang
 
Kanhir said:
I've found myself using my Switch in tabletop mode a lot more than I was before. The kickstand on the OG model was just crap, so I ended up balancing it off things most of the time, but the OLED kickstand makes tabletop actually viable.
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tabletop mode is the best part of the Switch, it's what ties the whole concept together
 
This should have been what the Lite was. I haven't docked this yet and have had it for over 2 weeks. It's just perfect for handheld play
 
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ngpdrew said:
Has anyone else had an issue with the Joy-Con not being especially tight on the rails? My left-joycon will come off with minimal pressure applied. The right is pretty sturdy, though.
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It happened to me that my oled joycons are less sturdy than my OG ones. However, if you don't want to take the lottery chance with a replacement, you can place two small square pieces of electrical tape one over the other on the flat lower part of the joycon rail where the arrows signs are placed to make the gap tighter (or better, on the equivalent position of the Switch rail for that matter) and that will solve the issue.

Also, electric tape being usually black color means that you won't realise it's there also.
 
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ngpdrew said:
Has anyone else had an issue with the Joy-Con not being especially tight on the rails? My left-joycon will come off with minimal pressure applied. The right is pretty sturdy, though.
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My first OLED was perfect but had a too cold screen color. The second has a better panel but the same issue like yours with the Joy Con rails. I also applied some tape since I don’t Wand a third Switch for this revision.
 
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My joycons are quite loose in my replacement OLED but I'm in a similar boat to Intoxicate in that I don't want to go through chancing a third console being Goldilocks.

My first OLED had a knackered screen with weird green artifacting. But the joycon sat tight as anything in it.

The replacement has a uniform screen with a slight yellow tint that I can live with. But all joycon except the Hori Split Pad Pro are loose in it. The wobble on the left is noticeable during play. I have a roll of Gorilla tape so might try that trick.

I've learned most of the looseness of joycons on Switch consoles come from the rails on the tablet itself. My partner's v2 Switch has really tight rails and her joycons are actually difficult to remove even after 2 years of ownership. The same joycon she uses are looser in my OLED. And my "loose" OG Neon cons are tight in her v2.

P.S. is the plural joycon or joycons? 🤔
 
Really want to pick up the Switch OLED at some point but my handheld usage is like 20% of the time and mostly TV mode otherwise so I figure it’s probably not worth the upgrade, right?
 
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