For me Wano was a land of contrasts. There were definitely way too many extra characters and subplots, and Oda dropped the ball on what could have been an interesting story with Zoro, given that he hasn't had much to do character-wise since the timeskip. I think hinging much of the emotions of the arc on Oden, a likeable but somewhat obnoxious character that we were told is basically the most awesome guy ever who just happened to hang out with the world's biggest pirates, was clumsy of Oda. The first half of Wano, in general, feels like a lot of waiting for something to happen.
However, I really loved all the Whitebeard and Roger stuff, with Roger's laugh being a top 5 panel in the series. Luffy training to use Advanced Conqueror's Haki in prison was really cool. The raid worked well as a payoff to a solid decade+ of storytelling. Oda really sold Kaido as an unbeatable villain, and seeing stuff like Jinbei come to save the crew, Law and Kidd working together to defeat Big Mom, Momo actually standing up to Kaido, it was all very satisfying. And the Gear 5 reveal was legendary. By the end of the arc I was burning through chapters like crazy because it was so exciting.
So while there's definitely a lot of bloat and unfocused storytelling in Wano, there's so many moments that I would put up there with the best in the series. I imagine it'll continue to be a polarizing arc, but I think overall, I've enjoyed each timeskip arc more than the last; Dressrosa was such a slog that I put off the manga for almost a decade, having only caught up last month. So I can see if someone read Wano weekly, it would be tedious, but I really enjoyed it in the binge. I'd say it's probably in my favorite 5 arcs in the series, but closer to the bottom than the top.
At any rate, with Wano behind us, I'm very excited about where the series is going from here. A lot of interesting setups and we're closing in on the end.
Oda has also said that the Warlords extended the run of the series, since originally it was just going to be WG + Emperors. I imagine we would still hit places like Skypeia and Wano in the original five year plan, but overall it would be very different. Probably no Void Century mystery either, since that was first set up in Alabasta, and Robin didn't have any prototype in the original plans whereas almost every other current Straw Hat does, including Jinbei: